Back to the Road Crew

Once again we made the trek to the Road Crew today.  On the list for today was Ulan Batar (7b) as well as a revisit to Cedar Spine in order for me to do it from the sit. 

For the last few days my right hand had been bothering me but today I had no pain.  The warm-ups seemed to fall easily including an onsight of A Gouche, De La Lune, a solid 7a in French 6b+ clothing (those of you who have been to Font will understand). 

We had run into a group of young climbers up from Cape Town for the weekend who had set up camp under Manuereheim Roof (6c), a hueco covered dihedral tipped back to nearly horizontal. They were kind enough to let us use their pads so we jumped in line.

 Sean seemed to be dragging a bit but nothing out of the ordinary.  There is this particular way that he climbs when he is not interested in the problem he is on.  Maybe we all do it.  Sort of give underpowered attempts on things we don’t really feel like trying.  At any rate this was how Sean was climbing today.  After half assing his way up Manuereheim Roof on the second or third attempt it was clear that today was not going to be Sean’s day.

 

After putting down Manuereheim Roof my self our attention turned to Ulan Batar.  Being less than optimistic about my ability to hold the key left hand sloper I had approached this problem with a bit of trepidation.

It was a pleasant surprise when on my first attempt when I stuck the hold with little problem and was able to move off it confidently.  On the second attempt the sloper felt even better than on the first and I was able to snag the next crimp and the next until I found my self on the finish jug.

About the time I had finished the down climb a fellow American, Christian, had showed up.  Christian was also looking for another attempt at Cedar Spine.  He had worked the spine three years ago but had been unable to close the deal.  This trip was going well for Christian.  We had run into him at the Roadside a few days prior just after he had sent Pendragon.  Today he had already been at Roadside and done Des Bacs Pour Nini (7c) and was headed up to the spine when he ran into us. 

Though he had done the climb on his previous trip Christian decided to jump in on Ulan Batar and quickly remembered his beta sending on his second burn.

Soon after we headed over to the blank slab/arête known as Tomorrow I’ll Be Gone (7c).  I was feeling good after my send and as I pulled onto the starting holds of Tomorrow I’ll Be Gone I felt strong.  The tiny crimps felt solid under my fingers despite the rising temperature.   Unfortunately this problem would prove to be just out of reach for all of us as the clouds broke and the sun beat down turning the crux into a greasy impasse. 

After flogging ourselves on the greasy slab repeatedly for about a half an hour we began seeing diminishing returns.  At this point it was time to bail and have a crack at Cedar Spine. 

With Sean shooting photos Christian and I stepped up to the arête one after the other.  My first attempt saw my right foot blow off just after I had pulled the sit start section sending me to the pads quickly.  I was climbing like crap, very sloppy and inefficient.  I could feel that I was tired. 

Christian’s first attempt looked rehearsed and smooth as he pulled out of the beta intensive bottom section.  Pulling his way to the top he snagged the crimp on the left face and stopped.  After checking his feet and looking at the next hold for what seemed like an hour he dropped off.  Turns out he had grabbed the crimp in between two good edges on the worst possible place.  Not wanting to make the mistake again he went up top to check out the holds and brush the edge. 

My second attempt felt solid and I pulled through my crux at the bottom with little work.  I felt like I finally had the beta down.  As I reached for the ear on the right face however I came up just short and fell to the ground.  I was tired and making stupid mistakes. 

Christian looked confidant as he brushed the bottom holds and chalked up.  Upon reaching the left crimp, this time grabbing it in the proper place, Christian looked solid. After a moment of hesitation he fired for the wide flat edge and stuck it.

Though I had sent Ulan Batar on my second attempt it turned out it wasn’t my day either.  Again today I walked away from Cedar Spine without the full ascent.  One more day Till we go to Kruger.  I'm running out of time.