Another Opening Day

It’s always more fun developing new problems than climbing established ones.  That is of course if you actually open.  This morning Sean and I met Michael and Evan above Depakhuis campground at the Road Kill Café area.  Half way up the hill sits a cluster of problems on a plateau that catches a lot of sun. Today was no exception as the temps were in the mid 80’s.  We had planed to try Road Kill Café but the rock felt so greasy there was little hope doing anything but getting frustrated.  The backside of the Road Kill boulder was in the shade however so Evan and Michael started working on a project that looked quite interesting.  By the time Sean and I had finished our exploring Michael had worn a hole in his knee on the knee bar in this massive hueco.  He graciously bowed out and left us to it.

As it would turn out today was my day in the dirt and Sean’s day to send.  After working the awkward end section that climbs through a large hueco Sean had managed to find every crimp on a problem that at first glance is all sloper.  After three frustrating send attempts Ellipsis was opened.

So the problem with this problem once again is the grade.  What to call the damn thing…

Since no one else has sent the official grade will have to wait.  To me It felt like 7c and not less than 7b, however Sean feels that it may go with easier beta and get the big down grade to 6c!  I am at a loss for what this easier beta would be.  The knee bar that Michael was using in super low percentage and he has never managed to reach the jug using it.  My beta was completely useless and got me stuck in a position that I could not unwind from.  The only other option would be to jump but that looks hard as well.  In the end after a long debate Sean gave it the tentative 7a.  Sometimes I feel like people who don’t grade problems are being a bit lazy, other times I feel like it’s pointless to rate anything.  I guess I’ll just have to bag the second and see how hard it is in the end.

Joe