Today we decided to forgo a long hike and climb at Fields of Joy. This area is part of the De Pakhuis bouldering that overlooks the farm we are staying on. The goal for today; to finish Dirty Lies (7b) a problem that climbs it’s way out of a steep cave on huge open-hand slopers to a large hueco. Sean and I had tried this problem on Tuesday when it was raining and each had fairly good showing but no send.
To prep for the slopey madness of Dirty Lies we went over to the Maniac boulder and warmed up on Sneak (6c). This problem is lots of fun with its Font/HP40 style bulges on a slightly overhung wall. To the right of this is Maniac (7b). Maniac is one of those problems that sucks you in with moves that don’t feel bad individually but end up being harder than the sum of its parts. This problem will have to wait for another day however as we had unfinished business to attend to.
At about 1600 Sean and I arrived at Dirty Lies and began brushing. It was starting to get humid again thanks to the approaching storm clouds. After a quick beta check we were set to climb. The last moves in the roof are the crux of the problem. In order to exit the roof you have to make a long move to a good hold at the lip from a greasy sloper. This was the move that had eluded us on our previous attempts. If your right foot doesn’t stick your whole body ends up swinging out hard enough to pull you off the holds. This piece of beta eluded us again on our first attempts but was quickly sorted out. Sean and I both sent on our next burns.
As the rain rolled in we packed up the gear and headed down to see if Michael and Evan had arrived. Tomorrow promises to be a long day.
Joe
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