Thursday, May 22, 2008

Cedar Spine

Road Crew

Today we made the trek back out to the far edge of the Road Crew and set up under Cedar Spine.  This 20 foot tall block towering above you is an impressive sight, regardless of the number of times you stand under it.  Standing on top makes things no better.  While imposing might not be the best word to describe the Spine, it’s close. 

After trying out some of the easy problems nearby and feeling reasonably warm we wandered back to what brought us on this 2k hike in the first place.  Once we had buckled the pads together (so they could be drug as one unit) and brushed all the holds we could reach I felt optimistic about my chances for a strong send first go.  My optimism would fade however as I quickly screwed up my beta and reached a move down low that sent me onto the pads.  It is amazing how two people of deferent heights given the exact same holds will climb the same problem in a completely unique manner.  In retrospect I had substituted Sean’s beta for my own.  Unfortunately this would not be apparent until many more failed attempts for me.

Pads in place, holds re-brushed, and shoes clean, Sean stepped up to the Spine feeling less relaxed than I had.  He was noticeably more fired up about the send than I had been. 

From the first move onward every hold looked like a jug as he slapped his way up the arête finally reaching the top crux (which he campused) placing him at the first real jug on the route and then at the top. Although he had done the problem from the sit five years ago this was a major accomplishment.   His first burn of the day Sean had dispatched one large goal of the trip. 

For me the next hour or so was spent at the bottom of the problem susing out the beta that had worked so well for me on my first attempt two days prior.  After working the opening moves into submission I opted out of the 7c sit start and decided to do the 7b stand for now. 

After two more tries I toped out in slightly less style than Sean had but I toped out nonetheless.  Feeling vindicated it was time to head back down the trail to go check out the Road Side area.  The full ascent for me will have to wait for another day. 

ROAD SIDE

The walk to Road side was more of a recon mission than anything.  Just to familiarize me with the main area.  We had not been there yet and I was glad, as it is a place that could suck you in.  The approach is all on a dirt road and there are problems everywhere.  The area is dense and packed with amazing problems on almost every block.  It’s easy to see why this was one of the first areas to be developed. 

As one twenty-foot highball seemed insufficient in a day we decided to give Creaking Heights a try.  This 25 foot tall monolith holds a single problem up a faint dead vertical water groove that runs up the center of the face.  The tiny lie back crimps and slopey feet leave you feeling less than secure as you move upward towards the jugs at the top.  This is especially true if your spotter is shooting photos and you have decided to place your pads in an entirely useless spot.  Needless to say I did not want to fall so I bagged the onsight of this classic 6c. 


Once again, the walk out was adder free.

Joe

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